Shirts and blouses A well-fitting, flowing, and/or ironed blouse or button-down is always appropriate, regardless of the unique business dress code
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If the new style was really introduced around 1893 it is impossible to tell, but ad copy and fashion columns in American magazines do not begin to depict or discuss anything resembling such a style until 1896, when the Pansy Corset Company began advertising its New Straight Front Corsets (A Perfect Corset)
Recommended styling: Jacket construction: - Single-breasted is almost always preferred - High button stance shortens the visible shirt area and elongates the leg line - Minimal shoulder extension to keep proportions natural - Shorter jacket length (covering the seat but no further) extends the leg visually Lapel choice: - Moderate width peak lapels create upward motion - Avoid very wide lapels which can overwhelm a smaller frame - Shawl collars are acceptable but offer less vertical emphasis Trouser strategy: - High-rise waistband is essential for elongating the legs - Slim taper from thigh to ankle creates a continuous line - No break or minimal break at the hem is crucial - Any trouser pooling shortens the visual leg length Proportional accessories: - Proportionate bow tie (not oversized) - Slim pocket square fold rather than puffed styles - Refined cufflinks that do not overwhelm the cuff Critical measurements: - Sleeve length precisely calibrated to show the right amount of cuff - Jacket length ending at the correct point on the hip - Trouser rise and inseam carefully balanced Body type tailoring summary Body type: Athletic or inverted triangle Jacket style: Single-breasted, peak lapel Key focus: Waist suppression, thigh room Goal: Complement natural V-shape Body type: Fuller figure or oval Jacket style: Single-breasted, low button, peak lapel Key focus: Deep V-line, structured shoulders Goal: Elongate and slim silhouette Body type: Tall and slim Jacket style: Double-breasted or wide lapel single-breasted Key focus: Horizontal elements, structured shoulders Goal: Add visual substance and breadth Body type: Shorter stature Jacket style: Single-breasted, high button stance Key focus: High-rise trousers, minimal break Goal: Create vertical elongation 4
