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Ch3, (counts as your 1st st here and throughout), sk next st, shell in next st, sk next st, *1dc in next st, sk next st, shell in next st, sk next st*, repeat from * to * until end of round, sl st to top of beg ch3 to join, DO NOT TURN, [17 shells & 17 dc]

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The most useful thing you can do to understand how the big folds should move is to draw a couple of guide arrowsthey will show us how the skirt flaps. (red line) Now, we just need to draw the folds along them, to make it look natural