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As documented on my previous post on unillustrated overcoats, , the original button regime before 1864 corresponded to the number of buttons on the undress coat which varied by officer rank and type, in 1864 it was somewhat standardized to 7 (actually corresponding to the frock), and in 1866 until 1886 it was fully standardized to 5 (pairs), but all equally spaced unlike the modern overcoat sometimes called a bridge coat

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Once you have found the correct face shape, its important to also find the correct width

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